Growing cucumbers in a home garden can be incredibly rewarding—unless you’re constantly wrestling with flimsy, ineffective trellises.
We’ve all tried those store-bought solutions that snap, tangle, or simply don’t work. After years of trial and error, we finally built a cucumber trellis that’s strong, durable, easy to assemble, and perfect for raised beds. Here’s how we did it—and how you can, too.
Why This Trellis Plan Works
- Built from long-lasting materials—remesh and pressure-treated or cedar wood
- Collapsible and easy to store during winter
- Provides height and stability without the need for stakes or guy wires
- Ideal for raised beds and easy to move around
- Cost-effective (around $30–$40 total) and lasts over a decade
- Exposes cucumbers for easy harvesting and sun exposure
- Adaptable design—can be customized for different garden layouts
What You Will Need
- 2 pressure-treated or cedar 2x4s (8 feet long)
- 2 2x4s (53.5 inches long)
- 2 1x4s (43.5 inches long)
- 2 1x4s (40.5 inches long)
- 1 piece of remesh (approx. 84″ x 42″)
- 2 carriage bolts with washers and nuts
- 2 screw eyes (optional for anchoring)
- 12 deck screws (2 inches)
- Fence staples
- Tools: drill, saw, tape measure, hammer
Step 1: Prepare Materials and Tools
Before we started building, we gathered all materials and double-checked our measurements, especially for the remesh size.
A tape measure ensured accuracy, while a miter saw gave us clean cuts. Safety tip: Always wear gloves and eye protection when handling remesh and power tools.
Step 2: Attach Remesh to Vertical Supports
We laid the 8-foot 2x4s flat and aligned the remesh with the narrow edge (1.5 inches wide). Starting from one end, we hammered in a staple to hold it in place, being careful to avoid injury by using pliers to position the staple.
After confirming everything was straight, we added another staple a few feet down to keep the mesh aligned. We saved the final staples until we confirmed the mesh’s position.
Step 3: Secure the Top Frame
After measuring across the top (approximately 43.5 inches), we cut a 1×4 to size and pre-drilled holes ¾ inch from each end. Using deck screws, we attached it across the top ends of the 2x4s, locking the frame into a sturdy rectangle.
For added stability, we optionally installed another 1×4 about 7 inches from the bottom, notching the 2x4s so the brace sat flush.
Step 4: Drill Holes for Legs
Finding the right placement for leg attachment wasn’t an exact science. We propped up the frame and marked the spots where the legs felt most stable—62 inches from the bottom was ideal for us.
We drilled holes slightly larger than the carriage bolts and wiggled the bit for a smooth fit. (Tip: Drill both sides simultaneously for perfect alignment.)
Step 5: Cut and Attach Remesh (Optional)
To give young plants a head start, we trimmed the bottom 18 inches of the remesh and bent it upright. This allowed vines to easily reach the mesh and start climbing.
We used an angle grinder to cut close to the welds, filed any sharp edges, and secured the remaining staples on both sides of the frame.
Note: This step proved invaluable. Without it, we had to improvise with bamboo sticks on some trellises.
Step 6: Build the Legs
Using the frame as a guide, we measured and cut two 2×4 legs. At the top of each leg, we drilled a hole for the bolts—¾ inch from the edge and centered. For cross bracing, we notched the legs and cut 1x4s to size.
Drilling pilot holes ensured the screws went in straight. We attached the braces, keeping the bottom one low for easy weeding and harvesting, and the top one just below the bolts for added strength.
Step 7: Assemble the Trellis
With both frame and legs ready, we inserted the bolts through the frame, slid the legs into position, and aligned the holes.
A washer and nut on each side held everything snug—hand-tight was enough. No need for a wrench unless your garden faces hurricane-force winds.
Optional: To anchor the trellis, we inserted rebar or stakes through the screw eyes into the ground. While we initially skipped this, one trellis did tip in high wind, so we now recommend anchoring in windy areas.
Step 8: Plant, Grow, Harvest—and Fold for Winter
This trellis transformed our cucumber harvest. The height keeps vines off the ground, maximizes sun exposure, and makes cucumbers easy to spot and pick.
At season’s end, it folds flat for storage, or it can remain in place year-round. The first version lasted over 10 years in all weather—this one might go even longer.
Note: If growing small cucumber varieties like gherkins, consider adjusting the trellis angle. Lightweight cucumbers don’t hang as visibly, making harvest more difficult.
Other Details Display
- Trellis Size: 84″ height x 43.5″ width
- Material Cost: $30–$40
- Remesh Details: 6-inch grid squares
- Anchoring Option: Rebar or stakes through screw eyes
- Best Used For: Cucumbers, beans, peas
- Storage: Collapsible for winter
- Weather Resistance: Suitable for rain, snow, and sun
- Compatible With: Raised beds, ground gardens
Summary
This DIY cucumber trellis is a durable, cost-effective solution that enhances plant growth, simplifies harvests, and lasts for years with minimal maintenance.
The DIY cucumber trellis design is flexible, collapsible, and perfect for gardeners seeking long-term results without recurring costs. Build it once, enjoy it for seasons to come.
This plan is a contribution by [chinooktype]. Project Via Instructables – Get the PDF Instructions here.
